The Plan
- 9/19 – Traveling to Kyoto via Shinkansen
- Planning on seeing Kabuki theater in Kabuki-za in Tokyo at 11 AM
- Heading to Kyoto on the bullet train
- I hope the Hello Kitty Shinkansen is running lol
- Probably gonna arrive, put my luggage in the hostel and then walk around
The Reality
- 9/19 – Traveling to Kyoto via Shinkansen
- Went to Kabuki-za in Tokyo at 11 AM
- Kyoto on the bullet train
- Ate an ebiken on the train and it was good. Tonkatsu and rice.
- Met up with a friend and ate at a small okinomiyaki place.
Kabuki-za in Tokyo
I woke up, checked out and put my luggage in a coin locker. Then nearby was a memorial to the “songs of the railways” so I checked that out. It was cool, just a little statue. Then I went to the matinee showing of Kabuki and it was incredible. It was a self-contained story called “SESSHŪ GAPPŌ GA TSUJI”, and it was about an old Samurai named Gappo who’s daughter was married to the local Lord Tayemasu (iirc) and she ends up claiming she loves another man, who is her stepson.
The Story (skip if you don’t want spoilers lol)
The stepson is made blind with leprosy, then he decides to leave the castle and go live with his grandparents with his wife to get away from his mother. Everyone in the village believes the mother was put to death for being so shameful, even the grandparents. So she ends up arriving, and causing a huge ruckus and saying she’s in love with her step-son and trying to physically tear him from his wife. Finally, the grandfather has had enough and says, “I cannot have such a shameful creature living in this house! It is because my grandfather was a samurai that I must follow his code of honor!” And stabs her in the stomach. Then she’s like, “let me tell you WHY I did what I did…” And she tells of a plot to kill her step-son.
She couldn’t tell her husband at the time or he’d whip into a frenzy and kill those plotting, causing a horrible outcome, maybe even a war, and she would be shamed in her duty to society. So she instead decided to give the step-son leprosy to deform him so his wife would abandon him (she didn’t), and then take the burden of shame upon her self by declaring her love for her step-son. This led him to flee the castle and go back to live with his grandparents. She gave him the leprosy and deformed him because it could be reversed by drinking the blood of the liver of a woman who was born on a specific day, time and month. Fortunately she was born at that time, and was willing to sacrifice her life for her step-son to cure him. This led everyone in the room to weep, as they realize she had sacrificed both herself and her honor in order to save the life of her step-son, and whatever dishonor she may have incurred would be absolved because of her noble sacrifice. They surround her with prayer beads, everyone weeps, and she cuts into her liver, and bleeds into the same vessel — the abalone shell — that originally poisoned her son (it’s part of the cure, don’t worry). Then he drinks it and is cured instantly. He becomes instantly beautiful again, and the mother looks at him, gives him the abalone shell as a parting gift, and is surrounded by prayer beads and then dies. The step-son steels himself and declares that because of this noble sacrifice, he will ensure a temple is built at this place, and there will live nuns dedicating themselves to her honor.
Kyoto via Shinkansen
The bullet train is so nice. I wish we had a nice intercontinental transit system in America. It’s so amazing all the good things the Japanese have compared to the states. You buy your ticket, get a lunchbox, get on the train, hang out for a bit, eat the lunch and then get off in Kyoto. The scenery is beautiful, and all the small towns whizzing by at 250km/h is really cool. Nagoya is a bit larger than I expected. Kyoto as well, albeit not as built upwards as Tokyo. It’s like Miami where there’s no massive buildings like the Mori Building or whatever that huge ass tower is in Azabudai hills.
Food to Dine For
I ate some Okinomiyaki and holy smokes was it good. I’ll post a pic of it. It was at this little mom and pop shop where it was a husband and wife behind a counter just cooking up food for the few people who were able to come in. Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten by the way. They didn’t speak much English but I was able to say “meccha umai!” And they said, “ohh ho ho, arigatou gozaimasu!” It was really fun because the guy had cards to interact with people in English so you could Google translate your response and let him read it. Their friend and customer was there, slamming cigs and laughing with them and watching TV with them while eating some food.
Honestly, best restaurant I’ve been so far. The atmosphere, everything. I hope some day I can have a little restaurant, hang out with my friends and watch TV while cooking them a nice meal with my wife. Step 1 is probably get a wife restaurant, right? Lol ;_;
K’s House Hostel
First night here I met my bunkmate Michael, he’s a cool dude from Texas. I gave him my recommendation for that Okinomiyaki place. The hostel is cool, it’s got some amenities. Laundry, shower, etc. Rented a towel for 100 yen for 4 days. I’m in the top bunk, which, I got up at 5am this morning so… I left earplugs out too for people. No one used any. The shades in the room barely block out the sun. It’s kind of horrendous. I feel bad for the kids who stayed up drinking. I spoke with a French girl this morning about her trip so far and it makes me kind of jealous I didn’t do this when I was younger. Hostels are great if you’re young and wanna meet new people. It’s a lot of fun. Just ask everyone where they’re from and what they’re doing and if they have plans. Then ask if they wanna grab dinner. I would but I’m like ancient and I have plans anyway.
Ok, so now I’m off to go meet my friend, visit some shrines and check out the rest of Kyoto!
